Nakamura

Shizuoka is home to Japan’s tallest mountain and its deepest bay. It’s also home to Nakamura, a rising star in the tempura world where you can fully experience the region’s natural bounty.

Chef Tomoki Nakamura trained at Naruse, now widely recognized as one of Japan’s leading tempura restaurants. For nearly eight years, he worked alongside chef Shimura, helping shape the restaurant’s rise and reputation.

The tempura at Nakamura carries the clear DNA of Naruse. It centers around fish caught fresh that morning from Suruga Bay and local vegetables grown at the base of Mount Fuji. Rather than relying on traditional Edo-style tempura staples like shrimp or anago, Nakamura uses a trio of cooking techniques: frying, fry-searing, and dehydration. These methods draw out the natural character of each ingredient in striking ways. Just like at Naruse, you won’t find many of the usual suspects here.

In the early days after opening in 2023, Nakamura focused on faithfully replicating what he had learned during his training. But now, with more confidence and rhythm, his originality is beginning to shine through.

One example is his kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) tempura. The scales are fried until they lift and crisp into a delicate texture, while the flesh beneath remains moist and tender. A brush of sweet soy sauce, a sprinkle of powdered sansho pepper, and a garnish of finely shredded cucumber complete the dish. The brightness of the cucumber and its subtle bitterness, typical of the gourd family, combine to take this dish well beyond the bounds of what we usually think of as tempura.

Rather than staying within the boundaries of traditional Edo-style cooking, Nakamura builds a new frontier for tempura based on the sheer strength of his ingredients. His “Shizuoka-style” approach introduces flavors rarely seen in Tokyo. Dishes like aji (horse mackerel), komochi ika (squid with roe), and asari (clams) all appear in tempura form, offering a bold, unforgettable impression that more than justifies a journey to Shizuoka.

If you’re a serious gourmet looking to understand the soul of tempura, one of Japan’s most iconic culinary traditions alongside sushi, you should head not to the classic counters in Tokyo but to Nakamura in Yaizu. The experience promises to be unforgettable.