Tempura Kondo

A legendary name in the tempura world alongside Mikawa Zezankyo, Tempura Kondo is led by Fumio Kondo, whose book, All About Tempura: Techniques and Tastes of Tempura Kondo, is renowned as a classic in tempura literature. One famous story in Japan recounts how, during President Obama’s visit, government officials contacted Kondo for a reservation, only to be politely declined as his seats were fully booked with regulars.

Kondo’s greatest achievement may be his focus on vegetables, which were often overlooked in traditional Edo-style tempura, incorporating them extensively into his courses. His distinctive style involves a light toss into the oil, creating a fluffy, thick coating that envelopes fresh, vibrant ingredients in a classic tempura form. Mineral-rich, mildly flavored salt complements the vegetable tempura perfectly.

Although Kondo is well over 70, he remains active, quietly preparing tempura alongside his second-in-command for the steady stream of fans. In recent years, young tempura chefs in their 40s have brought fresh ideas to Edo-style tempura, and those accustomed to these modernized styles may find Kondo’s approach a bit old-school. However, considering Kondo’s role in reshaping a once-rigid industry with his creativity and technique, any fan of Japanese cuisine would do well to experience his work while the opportunity remains.

Note: Dinner is considered even better than lunch, so if you're going to go, you might as well go for dinner. The famous sweet potato dish (Maruju), not included in the regular course, takes about an hour to prepare, so be sure to order it upon sitting down. (It’s generously sized, so one order shared between two people is perfect.)