Tempura Araramikawa

Among Tokyo’s tempura restaurants, none is attracting more buzz right now than Arata Mikawa. Chef Hisao Ogawa trained under Tetsuya Saotome at Mikawa Zezankyo, long considered the pinnacle of Edomae tempura. The name “Arata Mikawa,” given by his mentor, means “the new Mikawa” and reflects the high expectations placed upon him as a successor to the tradition.

Ogawa’s style of tempura closely follows that of Mikawa Zezankyo: ingredients are fried at high temperatures to draw out moisture and concentrate flavor. But as he explains, “There are many Mikawa-style restaurants out there, but even if the approach is the same, the texture of the batter and the quality of the oil reveal each chef’s personality.” His tempura begins with a crisp, light crunch that quickly transitions to a smooth, almost velvety coating. The oil never feels heavy, which means you can enjoy the full course without feeling weighed down—a rarity in the world of tempura.

The lineup of neta (the ingredients) includes classic Edomae staples like Ika（squid）, Kisu（Japanese whiting）, Ebi（shrimp）, and Anago（conger eel）. At the same time, Ogawa brings in less common items such as Kasugo（young sea bream）and Hamaguri（clam）, reflecting both a response to the changing availability of traditional neta and a desire to reinterpret them using the techniques he inherited from Mikawa.

Despite his elite training, Ogawa is not one to rest on his laurels. He continues to refine and rethink his craft with humility and courage. Watching him balance tradition and innovation so naturally, it becomes clear that Arata Mikawa is not simply preserving the past—it is actively shaping the future of tempura in Tokyo.

This is a restaurant to keep an eye on as it steadily carves out its place among the greats.