Mizuno

This rising star on the Kyoto dining scene opened in August 2023 and quickly earned a Michelin star. Chef Takahiro Mizuno is a seasoned veteran, having spent 17 years honing his craft at Gion Sasaki before serving as head chef at its sister restaurant, Gion Rakumi.

Mizuno describes his cooking as a personal interpretation of classical Japanese cuisine. Instead of the traditional softshell turtle hot pot, he might serve it simmered sweet and savory. In his take on sawaniwan, a delicate soup of finely julienned ingredients, he swaps the typical fried wheat gluten for crisped cubes of bread. These playful touches add an unexpected charm to the experience.

Though Mizuno initially set out to create a classic-style kaiseki restaurant, his mentor Sasaki instilled in him the idea that a great dining experience goes beyond what's on the plate. Today, Mizuno brings energy to the counter with live performances—breaking down a spiny lobster in front of guests or presenting matsutake mushrooms and wagyu beef tableside before preparing them hot pot style.

He sautés spinach for the lobster accompaniment in a wok, transforms fresh spring onions into a delicate blancmange, and even serves crab fried rice to finish the meal. At times, the cuisine crosses genre boundaries, always in pursuit of one thing: deliciousness.

For those who find traditional kaiseki a bit too rigid, Mizuno offers the perfect alternative. With refined technique, excellent taste, and just the right amount of fun, this is modern Japanese dining at its most engaging.