Kashiwai

Junko Kashiwai ran an antique ceramics shop before opening a restaurant. In practice, the two worlds were never separate. The plates and bowls she spent years collecting became part of the meal, and the food was developed to deserve them.

In 2021, the restaurant moved to its current space near Kitaoji Station. Junko now runs it with her daughter, Azusa. There are only four counter seats. Shelves of ceramics still line the room, and many pieces are available to buy. It feels less like entering a conventional restaurant than being invited into a private collection where lunch happens to be served.

The nine o’clock opening time makes it unusual in Kyoto. It works especially well before visiting Daitokuji or spending the morning in the quieter northern part of the city.

The signature menu is tsumami sushi, served in sets of ten or fifteen pieces inside lacquered boxes. The presentation draws from Kyoto confectionery culture, especially the refined look of jo namagashi displayed in sweet shops. Each piece is small, carefully shaped, and meant to be noticed before it is eaten.

The shari uses red vinegar, giving the rice a gentle acidity that works across many toppings. It is also used in the Kohaku Soda, a lightly tart drink often served at the start of the meal.

Much of the appeal comes from the sourcing. Nama fu from Fuka with white miso dengaku. Fresh yuba from Yubacho, simmered and cut finely. Red konnyaku from Shiga with plum jellyfish. Grilled conger eel from Hiroshima finished with sansho.

One of the most distinctive pieces uses shibazuke. The pickles are chopped and applied with a technique borrowed from wagashi making, creating a textured surface that resembles traditional sweets more than standard sushi.

Sets come with red miso soup and dessert, usually white miso ice cream or chestnut chakin shibori. There is also a Kyoto O tanuki set with seasoned rice wrapped in fresh yuba instead of sushi.

Because many ingredients are cured or vinegared, takeout is possible. But with only four seats and a room this personal, eating there is the better choice if you can.

An early reservation is wise.