Giro Giro Hitoshina

Giro Giro Hitoshina occupies a two storey machiya on a narrow lane between Kiyamachi and the Takase Canal, about five minutes from Kiyomizu Gojo Station. Downstairs, the counter wraps around an open kitchen. Upstairs, there are tables. Everyone orders the same eight course dinner, made up of around fifteen small dishes, and the menu changes completely every month.

You will not see that menu in advance. Nothing is printed at the table, and the dishes are not posted online beforehand. The cooks simply begin serving, one plate at a time.

Chef Eiichi Edakuni calls his cooking kuzushi kappo, a freer version of the kappo cuisine he learned in Kyoto. After training in traditional Japanese kitchens, the Kyoto born chef opened his first counter on Shijo Kawabata in 2000. He wanted to serve a proper multi course dinner without the price or formality associated with many Kyoto ryotei. Giro Giro Hitoshina followed in September 2002. He later took the idea overseas, opening in Paris in 2008 and Honolulu in 2011.

Dinner might begin with a small seasonal dish, followed by clear soup and sashimi, then move through grilled and fried courses before rice and dessert. Giro Giro rarely leaves those familiar formats untouched. Foie gras may appear where you expect fish. Gochujang might turn up in a hoba leaf grill. Kyoto yuba and seasonal vegetables can arrive in forms that are difficult to identify until you take the first bite.

Sitting at the counter makes the meal more interesting. The cooks assemble each plate directly in front of you, often using an unexpected combination or presentation, then move on to something far more traditional. After a richly seasoned or playful course, the rice and soup may arrive with very little embellishment. The shifts keep the dinner moving without making every plate compete for attention.

The monthly change is taken seriously. Once the calendar turns, regulars have a new set of dishes to come back for. That has helped Giro Giro build a loyal local following, while the relatively informal setting and approachable pricing have also made the counter popular with travelers from overseas.

For a first visit, downstairs is where you want to sit. There is no menu to study and very little explanation before each course arrives. You watch the kitchen, eat what is placed in front of you, and wait to see what comes next.

What to know before you go

There is no written menu. Dishes are explained verbally, in Japanese and functional English. If you have allergies or ingredients you avoid, tell us at booking so the kitchen can plan — they will adjust for pregnancy and for gluten if soy sauce is acceptable, but there is no vegetarian or vegan version of the course.

One drink per person. The house asks each guest to order at least one drink. Alcohol is priced separately from the course.

Arrive on time. The restaurant's policy is strict: a late arrival can be treated as a cancellation, and same-day cancellations are charged in full. If you are running late, message us immediately and we will call ahead in Japanese.

Children are welcome on the same omakase as adults; there is no children's menu or high chair.