Kiyama

Just a year after opening in 2017, Kiyama earned a Michelin star — proof of just how serious this place is. Today, it’s firmly established as one of Kyoto’s flagship restaurants. While many of Kyoto’s renowned kaiseki spots operate on a strictly introduction-only basis, Kiyama stands out for welcoming both first-timers and regulars alike. Its open-door philosophy has helped widen the appeal of Japanese cuisine, and that alone is no small feat.

Chef Yoshirou Kiyama is a seasoned craftsman who trained for years at the iconic Wakuden. A self-proclaimed food lover, he jumped into the culinary world right after high school, starting with a year and a half at a local restaurant in Gifu. He then joined Wakuden and quickly rose through the ranks, eventually becoming head chef of Kyoto Wakuden at just 29. After six years in that role, he set out to create his own place — and thus, Kiyama was born.

As you step through the entrance, you're greeted by the calming scent of incense. The counter, made of polished hiba cypress, glows under soft indirect lighting. The ambiance is serene and understated, capturing the rustic elegance that feels quintessentially Kyoto.

If there’s one word that defines Kiyama’s cuisine, it’s water. They dug a well beneath the restaurant and piped local underground spring water directly into the kitchen. From the first sip of the welcoming broth to the final bowl of matcha, this water forms the foundation of every dish, adding a clean, unmistakable presence to the entire course.

You’ll often see chefs nowadays shaving katsuobushi right in front of guests when preparing soup stock — that trend started here at Kiyama. When Kiyama told his mentor, Takeo Iwasaki (then executive chef of Wakuden), about opening his own place, he was encouraged to revive the vanishing tradition of making dashi from freshly shaved bonito flakes — and to do it in full view of the guests. The result? A shimmering golden broth, reminiscent of a well-aged white Burgundy, that seeps into your bones. It’s a deeply mindful, restorative experience.

The course typically includes 8 to 10 dishes like sashimi, grilled items, and vinegared small plates, followed by 4 to 5 different rice dishes. It’s classic and restrained in its seasoning, always putting the ingredients front and center. Yet each dish carries a surprising emotional impact — a testament to Chef Kiyama’s intuition and skill.

While restaurant prices across Japan have surged in recent years, Kiyama’s lunch course has remained remarkably consistent since its opening. It’s a steal, and especially compelling for overseas guests unfamiliar with traditional kaiseki cuisine.

If you're coming all the way to Kyoto, don’t miss the chance to experience the soul of Japanese kaiseki and the blessings of Kyoto’s terroir, all brought together with quiet brilliance at Kiyama.