Wakasugi

Nestled in the quiet residential area of Kinugasa, near Kinkaku-ji Temple, Wakasugi opened its doors in September 2022. The owner-chef, Nobuharu Wakasugi, brings an illustrious pedigree to the counter, having spent 14 years honing his craft at the world-renowned Kyoto institution Wakuden, following stints at prestigious culinary ryokans in Osaka and Shimane. Operating the restaurant alongside his wife, Chef Wakasugi has established a "Greater than an Izakaya, but intimate like a Kappo" concept. It is a place where locals and travelers alike can experience high-end Kyoto cuisine in a relaxed, approachable setting.

Chef Wakasugi’s diverse career—spanning traditional ryotei, casual kappo, and high-end catering—has gifted him with a remarkably versatile technical range. This background allows him to pivot seamlessly between orthodox kaiseki techniques and inventive, playful appetizers. His philosophy is rooted in a deep respect for ingredients, a trait refined during his years at Wakuden, but he adds a personal touch that reflects his own hospitality style: welcoming, sincere, and attentive to the specific cravings of his guests.

The restaurant occupies a beautifully renovated former textile factory, preserving the atmospheric charm of a traditional Kyoto machiya while offering a modern, spacious interior. The centerpiece is a pristine eight-to-ten-seat wooden counter where guests can witness the chef’s precise movements. Located away from the city's central bustle, the space offers an "adult sanctuary" vibe—elegant yet unpretentious. It is an environment designed for slow dining, where the focus remains entirely on the conversation and the art on the plate.

The menu structure offers two distinct experiences: a vegetable-centric, health-conscious course for lunch (around ¥6,000), and a robust a la carte selection for dinner. The evening menu features over 40 varieties of dishes, ranging from classic sashimi and grilled specialties to casual favorites like "smoked potato salad" or "fried chicken wings." To accompany these, the chef curates a selection of 50 sake labels, including favorites like Denshu and Hayaseura. The inclusion of half-portion (90ml) servings starting at ¥500 encourages guests to explore diverse pairings with their meal.

The engineering of Wakasugi’s flavors begins with the water. Every morning, the chef travels to the Kyomi Ridge to collect natural spring water, which serves as the foundation for his dashi and all cooking processes. He sources his produce from the renowned Higuchi Farm in Takagamine, ensuring that his vegetables possess a raw, earthy power. A signature starter, the surinagashi (vegetable purée) of grilled eggplant or seasonal root vegetables, is layered over silky sesame tofu to create a complex architectural balance of flavor and texture.

Technical ingenuity shines in his signature dishes. For the "Kamo Eggplant with Sea Urchin," the eggplant is deep-fried and then seared just before serving to concentrate its umami and aroma. His shira-ae (mashed tofu salad) features seasonal fruits like Shine Muscat or Western pears, dressed in a velvety tofu cream made from local "Ueda Tofu" silken bean curd. From dry-aging natural amberjack for ten days to pairing conger eel sushi with abalone liver, every "extra step" in the kitchen is designed to heighten the ingredient's inherent potential.

Wakasugi offers exceptional value, providing top-tier ryotei-level craftsmanship at a far more accessible price point than the restaurants in Gion or downtown Kyoto. While its location is slightly removed from the city center, the proximity to Kinkaku-ji and Daitoku-ji makes it a perfect destination for those seeking an authentic, high-quality meal after a day of temple exploration. For anyone wanting to experience the "true conscience" of Kyoto’s modern kappo culture, securing a seat via TableEX is a vital first step.