Sushi Koise

Opened in 2022 in Sapporo, Sushi Koise is helmed by Chef Kenta Koise, third generation of the Isezushi family from Otaru—one of Hokkaido’s most respected sushi lineages. His career includes formative years at Sushi Zen, Isezushi, and Sushidokoro Arima, all known for their disciplined craftsmanship and deep understanding of northern seafood.

Koise’s work represents a distinctly Hokkaido expression of sushi—often referred to as Ezo-mae (a local style that highlights the island’s native seafood). Rather than emulating the Edomae traditions of Tokyo, his approach draws directly from the surrounding seas and the cold climate that shapes them. Here, every element—from the fish to the rice—speaks of the north.

The counter offers a rare glimpse into the marine life unique to these waters. Local species such as octopus from Nemuro, sailfin poacher from Hiroo, or cherry salmon from Suttsu might appear depending on the season, treated with techniques that balance boldness and restraint. Smoked, vinegared, or gently simmered, each preparation reveals how Koise adapts classic sushi craft to the terroir of Hokkaido.

His shari (sushi rice) is defining—ultra-firm, cool to the touch, and seasoned with a red vinegar blend from Kokonoe Saika and Kisai, a combination rarely seen in Tokyo. The flavor is designed to harmonize with richer fish like salmon and trout, creating a precise equilibrium between acidity, temperature, and texture.

The meal flows seamlessly between appetizers and nigiri, revealing Koise’s dual focus on creativity and clarity. Dishes might feature locally sourced shellfish, aged white fish, or delicate preparations accented with Hokkaido dairy and mountain herbs—details that subtly remind you of where you are.

At 18,000 yen, the omakase delivers remarkable value for its precision and sense of place. Koise’s sushi is not an imitation of Tokyo’s Edomae style, but a confident, evolving statement of Hokkaido’s identity—crafted with restraint, intelligence, and quiet pride.