Spanish Cuisine Comer

Hidden in the quiet backstreets of Kanazawa’s Nomachi district, Comer Mar y Montaña captures the essence of Spain through a distinctly Hokuriku lens. Its name—Spanish for “Eat, Sea and Mountain”—encapsulates the restaurant’s philosophy: uniting the coastal bounty of the Sea of Japan with the earthy richness of the surrounding mountains.

Opened as the sister restaurant of the two-Michelin-starred Respiración, Comer offers a more casual yet uncompromising experience of modern Spanish cuisine. Here, diners can order freely à la carte, making it the perfect stop for travelers who want fine dining without the formality of a course-only setting. The connection to Respiración is evident in the technical precision of each dish, but the atmosphere feels more relaxed—an elegant bar-bistro where conversation flows as easily as the wine.

At the heart of the kitchen is Chef Tomoyuki Iwata, who spent more than a decade refining his skills in both Spanish and French kitchens before returning to his native Ishikawa. His vision is rooted in the culinary dialogue between land and sea: Himi yellowtail and Noto nodoguro meet Iberico pork, game, and wild herbs, creating combinations that feel simultaneously foreign and familiar. Every element—salt, olive oil, vinegar—is sourced from Spain, while the core ingredients remain local.

A signature dish, the Paella de Kani Kobako, transforms the region’s prized female snow crab into a deeply aromatic saffron rice that captures both sea breeze and winter air. The Arroz Negro (black squid-ink rice) has a bold marine intensity, while gambas al ajillo showcases plump local prawns in a garlic-infused olive oil that feels like sunshine condensed into a pan. For something lighter, the burrata with kiwi and lemongrass gelée offers a refreshing balance of sweetness and acidity, a reminder that Spanish cuisine need not always be heavy.

The restaurant’s charm also lies in its setting. Housed in a renovated machiya townhouse, the space is intimate yet contemporary, with natural wood, dark stone, and soft lighting evoking both Kyoto refinement and Basque warmth. Dishes can be ordered in half portions—ideal for those who wish to explore multiple flavors across the menu—and the staff’s wine suggestions lean toward sherry, Albariño, and other Iberian expressions that complement the umami-rich profile of Hokuriku seafood.

Where many Spanish restaurants in Japan still mimic the tapas bars of Madrid or Barcelona, Comer speaks in a new dialect—a Kanazawa Spanish, confident enough to translate rather than imitate. It’s a restaurant that honors the soul of the Iberian table while grounding it firmly in the terroir of Ishikawa.

For anyone exploring Kanazawa’s dining scene, Comer Mar y Montaña offers not only a taste of Spain, but a glimpse into how deeply that spirit can resonate in Japan’s north.