Sushi Ikuta

Kanazawa has long been a battleground for sushi, but for years the major players remained unchanged. Then came Sushi Ikuta, shaking things up with fresh energy. Opened during the pandemic, this next-generation contender is now one of the most anticipated sushi spots in the region.

Chef Takashi Ikuta trained for six years at the acclaimed Sushi Mitsukawa in Kanazawa, accumulating over a decade of experience. His style shows the influence of washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine), especially in how he seasons with dashi, salt, and sweetness. Dishes like shirako (milt) served in turnip soup with katsuo broth and a touch of olive oil show his creative flair. Even ingredients like shirako, often treated generically in winter, become something special in his hands.

Shari (sushi rice) here is cooked to just the right degree, with a fluffy texture that separates gently in the mouth. It is neither too hard nor too soft, and served at the ideal temperature. The vinegar blend is based on Yohei from Yokoi Vinegar, adjusted for a soft balance of acidity and salt. It blends seamlessly with each piece and remains easy to eat throughout the course.

The fish selection lives up to the region’s reputation. Ikuta sources directly from nearby ports in Wajima, Noto, Himi, Shinminato, and Nanao. Alongside local classics like iwashi (sardine), buri (yellowtail), amaebi (sweet shrimp), you’ll find less commonly seen neta such as kamasu (barracuda), houbou (gurnard), akaika (red squid), and Kano crab. As Ikuta says with a smile, “There’s nothing better than making good sushi from the fish I grew up with.”

Combining local advantage with an inventive spirit, Sushi Ikuta offers a refreshing contrast to Tokyo-style sushi. It's well worth the trip to Kanazawa. Try comparing it to Edomae sushi in Tokyo and you’ll gain a whole new level of appreciation. Lunch is also available at surprisingly affordable prices—a welcome bonus for travelers.