Tempura Matoba

One of the most talked-about new openings in Japan in 2025 is Tempura Matoba. For years, when it came to tempura in Kanazawa, there was essentially only one choice — Tempura Koizumi — but the arrival of this new contender has truly broadened the playing field.

The chef, Hiroki Matoba, is a seasoned tempura artisan who spent a decade as a mainstay at Tempura Motoyoshi, a Michelin two-star stalwart of Edomae-style tempura. Drawn by the bounty of land and sea that Kanazawa offers, he decided to relocate and open his own restaurant in the enviable setting of a back alley in the historic Higashi Chaya district.

The batter is a delicate blend of rapeseed and corn oils. Wrapping each ingredient in a thin, understated coat, Matoba draws out its full potential, elevating it into something that can only be achieved through tempura.

Every ingredient is sourced locally from Kanazawa with unwavering commitment. Each morning, Matoba visits the market in nearby Nanao to secure the freshest possible catch and produce.

A spring visit brought standout plates of young ayu (sweetfish) from the sea, stonefish, mountain udo shoots, and bamboo shoots — an all-star lineup of mountains and ocean that left a lasting impression. The moment that hinted at even greater things to come was the sawara (Spanish mackerel) from Noto, cut thick and cooked rare in the center, the belly served with salt, and the back with fuki miso. It was the kind of dish that made guests look skyward in delight.

In recent years, my Kanazawa trips had become day-trip blitzes for a single targeted restaurant. But with the arrival of this place, I now feel the need to stay overnight, to spend time with the region’s ingredients and cooking in a more thoughtful way. I want to return with each season, to watch the changes in Hokuriku’s bounty and the evolution of Tempura Matoba’s craft.