Takagaki no Sushi

This is a sushi restaurant that closely follows the style—down to the details—of the legendary Shimbashi Shimizu. Chef Nobuhide Takagaki is a young sushi artisan who trained at Mizutani in Ginza before spending four years at Shimbashi Shimizu. While his departure from Shimizu may not have been entirely smooth, the respect he has for his former mentor is clear throughout the restaurant.

The shari (sushi rice) follows the Shimizu school with an assertive acidity that leaves a vivid impression. The rice is cooked firm and kept at carefully controlled temperatures. Although only one type of shari is used, the chef adjusts the seasoning and temperature slightly depending on the neta (the ingredients), a testament to his serious dedication to the craft—even if little is known about his personality.

Tuna is sourced from the renowned wholesaler Ishiji at Toyosu Market. In addition to a strong lineup of shellfish and quality white fish like marbled flounder, the classic preparations are outstanding. His Kohada（gizzard shad）, tightly vinegared, and richly sauced ni-hamaguri (simmered clam) show clear signs of skilled craftsmanship.

When the restaurant first opened in 2018, it was seen by some as a near-copy of Shimizu. But in recent years, Takagaki’s steady refinement of his shari and his own approach suggests he’s developing a more original style. If you enjoy the bold, punchy flavor of red vinegar rice à la Shimizu, this is definitely a spot worth checking out.