Sushi Riku

The shari (sushi rice) at Sushi Riku is seasoned with a base of rice vinegar and a hint of red vinegar, a subtle departure from his mentors. The flavor is delicate and understated, allowing the aroma and umami of the fish to take center stage.

About half of the fish is sourced from Toyosu Market, while the rest is delivered directly from fishermen across Japan. For premium white fish, Toda relies on Junichi Fujimoto, a rising-star fisherman from Ehime with whom he has a close relationship. The omakase begins with kohada（gizzard shad）that is prepared in the soft and elegant style passed down from Sugita.

Throughout the course, his personal touches emerge. Kasugodai（young sea bream）is tender and juicy, seasoned simply with salt and sudachi. Sumi ika（cuttlefish）is brushed lightly with a soy glaze enriched with squid ink, a subtle but striking signature. The tuna, sourced from the increasingly popular wholesaler Yunoka, is top grade and never fails to meet the expectations of guests used to dining at Tokyo’s best counters.

Toda’s sense of flavor is sharp and instinctive, and his personality is endlessly endearing. Even his mentor, Sugita, has called him a genius. After honing his skills in places like Bangkok and Jakarta, far from the traditional centers of Edomae sushi, Toda is now working with the full potential of Japan’s finest ingredients.

Where will this unconventional, boundary-pushing talent go next? The sushi world will be watching closely.