Yakiniku Ushinoe

In recent years, the world of yakiniku has seen a steady stream of new stars, and among them, Ushinoe deserves special mention.

Owner Katsuhiro Igarashi is the son of a long-established yakiniku restaurant that has been running for 35 years. From childhood he picked up knives almost as a game, helping out at his father’s shop, where he first discovered the fascination of grilling meat. After opening his own restaurant in 2016, things went smoothly—until 2022, when a visit to one of Tokyo’s top yakiniku houses and a revelatory bite of harami completely changed his perspective. From that moment, he revamped his supply sources and set his sights on the pinnacle of Japan’s yakiniku scene.

The reborn Ushinoe now offers some of the finest meat quality in Tokyo. Igarashi has a particular passion for offal, sourcing from Kenjiro Tajima Shoten, a renowned supplier of premium wagyu. Tongue, liver, and harami are exceptional, but on my last visit it was the tripe and cheek meat that truly blew me away. Plenty of places buy great beef yet fall short on seasoning, but here, both quality and flavor come together flawlessly.

Though slightly removed from central Tokyo, Ushinoe is fast becoming a sacred spot where diners can experience the true essence of wagyu at a surprisingly reasonable price. Without doubt, this will soon be one of those near-impossible reservations, so go while you still can.