Oryori Fujii

In Toyama, a region blessed with bounties from the sea, mountains, and rivers, Oryori Fujii stands out as one of the most captivating kaiseki restaurants in Japan. Since earning two Michelin stars in the 2021 Michelin Guide for Hokuriku, it has gone on to receive recognition from The Japan Times as one of its top ten Destination Restaurants, as well as a Silver award from Tabelog. It is a restaurant whose acclaim is well deserved.

Chef Hironori Fujii trained for five years at the long-established Zeniyah in Kanazawa, then refined his approach to seasonality and subtlety under the tutelage of Master at Mishita in Gion, Kyoto. Once located in the Gofuku area of Toyama, Fujii relocated in 2021 to Iwase at the request of Masuizumi, one of Toyama’s most celebrated sake breweries. The new setting is grand and atmospheric, complete with a garden meant to evoke the crashing waves of the Japan Sea. It is here that Fujii has entered what feels like the prime of his career.

The primary draw for diners who travel from across Japan is the abundance of exceptional local ingredients. In spring, guests may be treated to Hotaru ika（firefly squid）and sansai（mountain vegetables）. Summer brings kegani（hairy crab）, wild unagi（eel）, and Jinzū ayu（sweetfish from the Jinzū River）. In autumn, dishes feature matsutake mushrooms and kamasu（barracuda）. And winter offers up zuwai gani（snow crab）, buri（yellowtail）, and even bear.

Every ingredient is selected with a discerning eye and served at the peak of its freshness. Fujii's style is restrained yet thoughtful, transforming the finest produce into elegant and deeply expressive dishes.

One standout is the kobako gani（female snow crab）, a dish so beloved that many regulars say they never need to eat crab anywhere else again. Served in its shell, the vibrant orange uchiko（crab roe）is placed on the right, and the darker sotoko（exterior roe）on the left, both accompanied by a small, steaming spoonful of freshly cooked rice. The uchiko is soft and sweet, the sotoko bursting with a satisfying pop, and when combined with the rice, it creates a moment of pure, almost spiritual pleasure. This dish embodies Fujii's philosophy of allowing guests to feel the passing seasons through food.

Masuizumi sake, one of Japan’s most sought-after breweries, is available in its full lineup here. For those who enjoy sake, the pairing course offers an extraordinary chance to try rare and limited editions that are difficult to find elsewhere.

To feel the changing of the seasons through carefully crafted cuisine is one of the most luxurious ways to spend time in Japan. For seasoned travelers seeking a truly enriching journey, we highly recommend pairing a hot spring escape in Hokuriku with a meal at Oryori Fujii. It will be an experience to remember.