Sushi M

Located in the Omotesando area, Sushi M represents a high-level fusion of Edomae technique and French fine-dining philosophy. The establishment was founded by owner-sommelier Yoshinobu Kimura, formerly the head sommelier at the two-Michelin-starred NARISAWA. Kimura’s vision focuses on a "new pairing experience," where the structural elements of sushi—specifically rice and seasonal ingredients—are engineered to harmonize with a sophisticated wine and sake program.

The menu is structured to bridge the gap between traditional Japanese craft and Western gastronomy. Appetizers are prepared by a French-trained chef, resulting in a sequence that feels more akin to a contemporary tasting menu than a standard sushi omakase. This avant-garde approach serves as a deliberate departure from orthodox Edomae sequences, prioritizing sensory contrast and aromatic complexity.

Behind the counter, Chef Junya Hashimoto, an alumnus of the well-regarded Sushi Tsuu in Nishi-Azabu, executes the nigiri. His shari (sushi rice) is technically distinct, utilizing a blend of two types of red vinegar, sea salt sourced from Christmas Island (Republic of Kiribati), and wasanbon (fine Japanese sugar). This formulation produces a bold, multi-layered flavor profile designed to withstand and complement the acidity and tannins of wine. A signature example of his unconventional style is the hot, charcoal-grilled Nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), served as a hand roll to emphasize texture and smoke.

The efficacy of the pairing program at Sushi M is rooted in the technical synergy between the chef and the sommelier. Unlike many establishments where wine is an afterthought, the shari here is specifically built to match the beverage selection. This creates a level of harmony rarely found in the "sushi and wine" category, making it an essential destination for diners seeking a non-traditional, globally-minded culinary experience.

While the restaurant strays from the strict Edomae path—potentially challenging the preferences of traditionalists—it offers a definitive direction for the diversification of Tokyo's sushi scene. It is a specialized venue for wine enthusiasts and open-minded diners who value technical innovation over historical adherence.