Miyawaki

Located on Aburanokoji-dori in Kyoto, Miyawaki is one of the city's most compelling new destinations, inheriting the DNA of the legendary Kappo Chihiro, which closed its doors in 2022. Owner-chef Masaya Miyawaki served as the right-hand man to Chihiro’s master, Hiromichi Nagata, before honing his skills as executive chef at Wine and Washoku Mikuri. By blending the strict discipline of traditional Kyoto cuisine with a contemporary flair for innovation, Miyawaki has created a space that resonates with seasoned gourmets and modern travelers alike.

Upon entering, guests are transported into a minimalist yet luxurious sanctuary designed by the architectural firm Hiramatsugumi. The interior is a masterpiece of natural textures: walls finished in hand-crafted wasabi paper by artist Wataru Hatano and a magnificent counter carved from a 300-year-old zelkova tree. Complemented by vintage Danish chairs and subdued lighting, the atmosphere is deliberately quiet, stripping away the noise of the city to focus entirely on the sensory experience of the meal.

The core of Miyawaki’s culinary philosophy is the art of "subtraction"—a principle learned from his mentor to bring out the pure essence of seasonal ingredients. A signature example is his sea bream sashimi served with salted kelp, a technique inherited from Chihiro that highlights the fish’s natural sweetness without the need for heavy seasoning. Every dish, such as the concentrated soft-shell turtle (suppon) chawanmushi enriched with fragrant koutake mushrooms, is designed to deliver a deep, primal umami that lingers on the palate.

While the foundation is traditional, Miyawaki’s course is celebrated for its dynamic rhythm and contrast. He is not afraid to break conventions, often introducing bold elements like Omi beef cutlets (bifukatsu) or grilled pork loin in yuan-yaki style into the sequence. Between the refined seafood and the final clay-pot rice, he might serve a hearty duck or pufferfish hot pot. This play between the delicate and the robust ensures that the 12-course experience feels vital and surprising from start to finish.

A defining highlight of the restaurant is the chef’s extraordinary collection of ceramics and glassware. Miyawaki has been a passionate collector since his early twenties, and his table settings feature a seamless mix of antique Kyoto ware, contemporary Japanese masterpieces, and French vintage glass. For Miyawaki, the vessel is as vital as the ingredient; the visual harmony between the food and the plate is what elevates a meal into a lasting memory.

The beverage program also reflects the chef's personal story. Hailing from Kagawa Prefecture, he stocks an impressive selection of aged Meiyokan and Yorokobi Gaijin sake from his home region, offering a robust pairing that stands up to his flavorful dashi. Whether you are a connoisseur of rare sake or prefer a non-alcoholic experience, the depth of the kitchen’s craftsmanship ensures a sophisticated evening of pairing.

Dining at Miyawaki is an intimate encounter with the future of Kyoto’s culinary heritage. It is a place where the weight of history is carried with grace and reimagined through a lens of modern elegance. For those seeking the pinnacle of Japanese hospitality in an environment that feels both ancient and cutting-edge, Miyawaki is an essential reservation in the ancient capital.