Hatsuogawa

In Asakusa, unagi restaurants are everywhere. Very few feel tied to old Tokyo in a real way. Hatsukogawa does.

Founded in 1907 near Kaminarimon, the restaurant has continued serving eel through more than a century of change. It sits in one of

Tokyo's busiest sightseeing districts, yet the appeal is not novelty or tourist convenience. The draw is that you can still eat a recognizably traditional Edo style unagi meal here.

That character begins with the tare. The house sauce has been replenished since the Meiji era and remains notably restrained by modern standards. It is light in texture, low in sweetness, and sharp in finish. Rather than coating the eel heavily, it seasons it. The result is cleaner, drier, and closer to the older Tokyo style than many contemporary versions.

The cooking follows the classic Kanto method. Eel is steamed first, then finished over Kishu bincho charcoal. Steaming removes excess fat and softens the flesh, while the final grilling adds aroma and a lightly crisp surface. Hatsukogawa leaves slightly more texture in the eel than some diners may expect, giving the fish more structure rather than pushing it toward complete softness.

The unaju is the reason most people come. Once opened, the box gives off the aroma of charcoal and sauce before the first bite. The eel is tender but still present on the palate, the tare keeps the flavor focused, and the rice underneath is properly cooked with grains that hold their shape. It is easy to understand why regulars continue returning.

Shirayaki is another strong order. Without tare to lean on, the restaurant's steaming and grilling become easier to judge, and the technique holds up well. The flesh stays moist, the surface is controlled, and the natural flavor of the eel remains clear.
Kimosui is one of the small pleasures of the meal. Served with eel liver, mushroom, wakame, mitsuba, and yuzu peel, it refreshes the palate and feels unusually generous for the price.

The room is compact and full of character. There is seating around an irori style hearth, smaller raised seating near the entrance, and tatami further inside. Comfort is secondary to character. During peak hours, waits of around forty minutes are common.

What makes Hatsukogawa valuable is not that it is the most modern or the most luxurious eel restaurant in Tokyo. It is that in the middle of Asakusa, where so much caters to passing crowds, this place still tastes rooted in the city that created the style.

Reservations are recommended. TableEX can assist with booking and help secure the best available timing for your visit.