Sushi Ichigo

Serious sushi restaurants are rarely found by accident in Chitose Karasuyama.

T
he neighborhood sits well outside the areas most visitors associate with Tokyo's high-end dining scene. There are no luxury hotels nearby, no concentration of famous counters, and little reason for outsiders to wander through unless they are headed somewhere specific. Sushi Ichigo is exactly that kind of destination.

Chef Kenta Higuchi opened the restaurant in 2009 after a career that followed an unconventional path. Born and raised in Asakusa, he began at a small sushi restaurant in Shinjuku before moving into kappo cuisine, later spending time overseas before eventually opening his own counter. Unlike many chefs of his generation, he does not come from a celebrated sushi lineage. The restaurant was built from accumulated experience rather than inherited reputation.

That independence is most visible in the rice.

While many contemporary sushi chefs rely on increasingly complex vinegar blends, Higuchi takes a simpler approach. He uses a single red vinegar from Mizkan and builds the entire restaurant around it. The decision sounds straightforward, but it leaves very little room for adjustment elsewhere. Rice temperature becomes more important. Fish selection becomes more important. The balance between neta and shari must be precise because there is nothing in the seasoning to hide behind.

The rice itself comes from organically grown Koshihikari cultivated in Yamagata's Okitama region. Cooked in a Nambu iron pot, it develops a firmer texture than many modern sushi counters prefer. The grains hold their shape as they reach the guest, then gradually release their sweetness as they warm in the mouth. Higuchi's nigiri are also slightly larger than average, a choice that shifts attention toward the shari rather than away from it. The fish and rice arrive together, separate cleanly, and disappear at almost the same moment.

That sense of proportion defines the entire meal.

Rather than pursuing luxury ingredients for their own sake, Higuchi focuses on fish that reward careful handling. Kohada is prepared with the clarity and restraint expected of classical Edomae sushi. Sumi-ika reveals texture before sweetness. Mekajiki carries more depth than its understated appearance suggests. Even the red clam is shelled and sliced to order, a small detail that most guests may never notice but one that regulars have come to appreciate.

One preparation that has become closely associated with the restaurant is the ni-gaki. Simmered oyster is not a common signature in modern sushi restaurants, yet Higuchi approaches it through the same Edomae logic historically applied to shellfish such as clam or scallop. The result retains the richness of oyster while introducing structure and concentration that raw preparations cannot achieve. It feels traditional and contemporary at the same time, which is true of much of the food served here.

The omakase typically consists of eight appetizers followed by ten nigiri. The progression is measured and deliberate, never rushed. A bright miso soup arrives near the end, followed by a handmade dessert prepared by the chef's wife. It is a modest gesture, but one that reflects the character of the restaurant as a whole. Nothing feels designed for impact. Everything feels designed to complete the meal properly.

Sushi Ichigo was recognized in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2024 as a Selected Restaurant, but the appeal of the counter goes beyond accolades. Higuchi has spent more than fifteen years refining a style built around a handful of decisions he believes in completely. In a city where many sushi restaurants are becoming more elaborate, the simplicity here stands out precisely because it is not a reaction against anything. It is just what the restaurant is.