Ukiyo

Hidden deep inside the new five-storey complex “CABO,” just up the hill from Yoyogi-Uehara Station, Ukiyo feels like one of those restaurants you stumble upon and instantly want to keep secret. The concrete corridor leading in is dim and dramatic, the design by Atsushi Nagata (who also did Kabi) stripped down yet full of quiet confidence. At the front of the building sits “No.,” the book-bar by Shogo Otani, and further inside—behind the turn of that L-shaped hallway—Ukiyo glows softly like a stage.

The team behind it is equally intriguing. Owner-sommelier Naoto Takeuchi, who previously worked at Kabi and L’Effervescence, partnered with chef Toshinobu Arai, a 29-year-old born in Canada. After training in classic French, Arai worked as sous-chef at London’s charcoal Thai restaurant KILN, then at the two-star modern African restaurant Ikoyi, where he learned the depth and restraint of spice. Returning to Japan, he spent time at Kabi and its sister restaurant Caveman before taking charge at Ukiyo in 2023.

The concept here—charcoal, spice, and seasonal Japanese ingredients—is not about being exotic for its own sake. Arai uses fire and spice with precision, to draw flavor out rather than to cover it up. He talks about charcoal as a way to “let the ingredient speak” and spice as a tool “to highlight, not hide.” It’s a simple philosophy, but it comes through in every dish.

The tasting menu, one course of about ten dishes, moves with rhythm and surprise. Sweet shrimp, katsuo, and amadai appear next to venison and mango, yet nothing feels forced. Vegetables grilled over binchotan carry that deep smoky note, balanced by broths and sauces that lift the flavor into something light and elegant. It’s a meal that feels modern but never cold—new, yet somehow nostalgic.

Takeuchi’s pairings deserve a mention. Whether you go for the wine or the non-alcoholic set, both show the same thoughtfulness as the food. He has a way of talking about wine that draws you in—no unnecessary jargon, just stories that make you want to taste. After dinner, the restaurant turns into a casual bar where you can stay for another glass, maybe with his house pâté or tomato pickles. It’s that kind of place—serious about quality, but never stiff.

It’s not cheap: around ¥16,500 for the course, with drinks on top. But given the level of craft, the five staff for ten seats, and the seductive atmosphere, it feels almost underpriced. The food might not click with everyone—some dishes lean experimental—but it’s undeniably bold and full of life.

If you walk out of Ukiyo and stop by “No.” for a nightcap, the contrast is perfect: fire and spice giving way to quiet and books. It’s a reminder that dining, at its best, isn’t just about flavor—it’s about mood, design, and the small thrill of discovering something truly your own.