Ebitei Bekkan

Alongside Oryori Fujii, Ebitei Bekkan stands as one of Toyama’s premier destinations for refined kaiseki cuisine. In fact, many food lovers who have dined at both establishments have confessed that they felt a deeper sense of satisfaction here.

The restaurant is currently led by the fourth-generation chef, Kentaro Mura, who trained at Aoyagi, the legendary restaurant that helped shape talents who later opened Ginza Kojyu, Kanda, and Ryugin. After earning two Michelin stars in 2016, Ebitei Bekkan temporarily closed its doors in 2018 due to a relocation. During the four-year hiatus, Chef Mura worked in the kitchen of Tokyo’s renowned Matsukawa to further hone his craft.

The new location is a striking two-story house. From the outside, the sleek and modern design might not suggest a traditional Japanese restaurant. Inside, the intimate six-seat counter room features a wide glass window that stretches wall to wall, offering a breathtaking view of the cherry blossom trees lining the nearby Matsukawa River. In spring, the pale green leaves create a natural folding screen, a living artwork that changes with the season.

Ebitei Bekkan’s cuisine showcases the best ingredients from Toyama: Kijihata（red-spotted grouper）, Bai gai（Japanese ivory shell）, Shiro ebi（white shrimp）, Buri（yellowtail）, ayu（sweetfish）from the Jinzū River, Ikeda beef, Tsukinowaguma（Asian black bear）, and Zuwai gani（snow crab）, among others. The kaiseki course feels both grounded and inventive, blending tradition with subtle innovations.

Each dish is crafted with care and restraint. There is no flashy presentation, no gimmick. Just quiet mastery that allows the quality of the ingredients to speak clearly. In winter, the Zuwai gani is served with only light seasoning to let the crab’s natural sweetness shine, offering a contrast to the soy-marinated kobako crab at Oryori Fujii.

After reopening, the restaurant was quickly recognized again in 2023 with a listing in Gault & Millau as one of Toyama’s top establishments. Chef Mura remains humble, saying he still has more to learn. Yet the dignified atmosphere and deeply satisfying cuisine make Ebitei Bekkan a place well worth visiting, whether you are traveling from within Japan or coming from overseas.